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Lara's Antique Corset Collection

 
Cooley's Cork corset (circa 1873-1878)

Inventory # 2006.0114

Not for sale

 
"Cooley's Celebrated Corset" "Cork in Lieu of Bone" "Patented January 21st, 1873"

This is the "Katie" model in a size 23" waist. (It is a touch big for the form I have it displayed on.) I find this type of corset fascinating. I never knew that you can use sheets of cork between the layers of cotton and have such successful results. I also have a second one just like this in a 26" waist.

 
  
 
      
 
Corset is constructed from two layers of thin cotton jean cut with the grain wrapping around the body. The outer layer is heavily starched. Seven pattern pieces per side including the two bust gores. Each bust gore has a chevron of pale blue flossing at it's base (see detail below). The edges are bound in a cotton twill tape and tiny trim is added to the upper edge. The busk, two center back bones on either side of the grommets and the 5/8" wide side steels steel are of metal. All other "boning" is made with 1" wide strips of cork each sewn in place between the fabric layers with 5 parallel rows of stitching. There is no waist tape at all (I believe this becomes common in the corsets of the 1880s and later). 13" busk within a 14 3/8" center front length. Busk has four brass clasps and is extremely dished (bent permanently to cup inward twords the abdomen, see photo below.)

13 1/4" center back length with 12 grommets spaced evenly 1" apart.

33" full bust / 23" waist /  34" high hip 

(The antique dressform the corset is displayed on measures 37" bust, 22" waist, 40" full hip )

 

detail of bust

Flossing detail of under bust gores

inside view of corset showing the curve of the dished busk

Manufacturer's mark and size stamp

 

 

Box corset came in

 

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